Toilet replacement cost: I buy the toilet vs you supply it

The installation work is about the same either way. We still shut off the water, pull the old toilet, check the flange, set the new one and test it for leaks. What changes is who owns the risk on the fixture itself.

When we supply the toilet, we pick a model we know fits your rough-in, and we handle any problem with the part. When you buy it, you control the brand, style and what you spend. The product warranty is then between you and the store or maker.

What to weigh before deciding

• Fit: A toilet that does not match your drain spacing cannot be installed as planned.
• Damage: Cracks inside the box are often found only at install time. If the toilet is yours, the return trip is yours too.
• Parts: Some toilets come with a seat, wax ring and bolts. Many do not.
• Warranty: The labor warranty and the product warranty may come from different places.

If you are buying your own toilet, measure before you shop. Most return trips happen because the new toilet does not match the bathroom.

Measure the rough-in

The rough-in is the distance from the finished wall to the center of the bolts that hold the toilet to the floor. Measure from the wall, not from the baseboard. Most homes use a 12 inch rough-in, but 10 and 14 inch layouts exist, especially in older homes.

Check the rest of the space

1. Bowl shape: elongated bowls stick out farther than round ones. Make sure doors and drawers still clear.
2. Height: comfort height bowls sit higher. Some people prefer them, others do not.
3. Water use: the Florida Building Code limits new toilets to 1.6 gallons per flush. Any toilet sold for homes should meet this, but check the label on discount or imported models.
4. Footprint: a smaller base may leave an unpainted or untiled ring where the old toilet sat.

If you are not sure about any of these, send us the model number before you buy.

Who buys the toilet does not change what we find under the old one. Some problems only show up once the old toilet is off the floor.

Common add-ons

• Broken or rusted flange: the ring that anchors the toilet to the drain may need a repair kit or replacement.
• Soft or rotted subfloor: a slow leak over time can damage the floor around the drain. This is less common on concrete slabs but can still affect tile.
• Old shutoff valve: a valve that will not close fully, or leaks once it is turned, is usually worth replacing while the water is off.
• Supply line: older braided or plastic lines are cheap to replace and a frequent source of leaks.
• Flooring gaps: a new toilet with a smaller base can expose a gap in tile or vinyl.
• Haul-away: the old toilet has to go somewhere. Ask whether removal is included.

We point these out before we set the new toilet, so you can decide what to fix now and what can wait.

For a simple swap in the same spot, many Florida building departments do not require a permit. That is a local decision, though. Rules differ between Lee, Charlotte and Sarasota counties and the cities inside them.

When is a permit more likely?

• The toilet is being moved to a new location.
• Drain, vent or water lines are being changed or extended.
• The swap is part of a larger bathroom remodel.
• Damaged pipe under the floor or in a wall has to be removed and replaced.

Lee County, for example, publishes a plumbing permit guide. It explains how plumbing applications are submitted and what owner-builders must do to sign for a permit. Sarasota and Charlotte counties have their own guidelines.

What about condos and HOAs?

If you live in a condo or HOA community, check your association rules too. Some require notice or approval before any plumbing work, even a like-for-like replacement.

Buying your own toilet can work well. Most problems come from a few avoidable mistakes.

What we see most often

1. Measuring from the baseboard. This can throw off the rough-in measurement by half an inch or more.
2. Not opening the box. Check the bowl and tank for cracks or chips as soon as you get home, not on install day.
3. Assuming the seat is included. Many toilets ship without one. Also check that the seat matches the bowl shape.
4. Forgetting the small parts. Wax ring, closet bolts and supply line may or may not be in the box.
5. Buying a two-piece toilet and expecting it assembled. Joining the tank and bowl adds time.
6. Picking a footprint smaller than the old one without planning for the flooring underneath.
7. Ordering a special model with a long lead time and scheduling the install before it arrives.

Take a photo of the old toilet, the floor around it and the shutoff valve. Share it along with the new model number so any fit issues get caught early.